Thursday, 16 January 2014

Forty-Five Hours Without A Drink: Jacktone Shiraz

So Christmas and New Year have finally departed, and I am left with the usual sensations of guilt entangled with an increasing sense of my own mortality, and I ask myself, When was the last time I went a whole day without drinking? Good question, I answer myself approvingly, and am tempted to leave it there, along with Where did I leave my Christmas presents? and How long will the boiler hold out?

It nags, though. I'm pretty sure I went at least one day in 2013 without any alcohol, but that may have been because I was coming round from a general anaesthetic. I used to make a point of always taking one day a week off the booze - and held to it pretty well until the last few years, when the regimen started to collapse through sheer inanition and, oh yes, when I started doing Sediment, at which point it became my duty to neck everything in a spirit of calm disinterested enquiry, spurred on by authentic slavering greed.

Equally (I tell myself), in the days when one day in seven was dry, I used to be able to go and get absolutely shitfaced from time to time, in a way I am no longer capable of. I mean, I'm just too old to get blind drunk any more, and in a way I'm grateful. So maybe (I keep telling myself) it all balances out. But then again. A whole day without drink.

I start to get anxious. On the lookout now for symptoms of chronic alcoholic dependency, I am at once rewarded with this horrible web page from the BBC: Should there be a word for 'an almost alchoholic'? Well, the BBC, if indeed it knows, isn't saying what that word might be. But the timing is so menacing that, like some scaly penitent on the road to Santiago de Compostela, I immediately draw the only inference possible and quit drinking for a day, just to see if I still can.

Actually, it's more than a day, because I rarely drink at lunchtimes: in reality it's a forty-five hour dryout from nine at night on a Monday (when I take my last lachrymose swig of the muscular Jacktone Ranch Shiraz my Pa-in-Law gave me for Christmas, might as well be called Testosterone, so burly and stuffed with fruity armpit overtones is it) to six in the evening on Wednesday, the day after the day after, when the wine is allowed to start flowing again. I go to bed in a dim frame of mind.

Still. Next day, Tuesday, goes by comfortably enough, not least because I'm not expecting to drink until the sunset hour of six p.m. I amuse myself by haunting another website, Love Your Liver, which gives me a relatively clean bill of health apart from telling me I might want to visit my doctor on account of being (reading between the lines, here) a burgeoning dipsomaniac. This judgement is of course dependant on the broadly-canvassed idea that there is a medically correct number of drinkable units of alcohol per diem, a notion which PK himself has taken issue with. So while I accept that I could Love my Liver more by drinking less, I reserve judgement as to exactly how much less would be more.

Six o'clock comes and goes, and to my surprise, I still feel fine. In fact, I carry on feeling fine right up to the moment when I sit down with my wife to a chicken risotto with roasted asparagus, only to observe my right hand clutching the empty air where my wine tumbler normally sits, and feeling, not so much desperation or a fit of the shakes, but a kind of grief, a moment of pitying nostalgia, as if remembering a dead pet.

It passes. We end up watching a DVD of Breaking Bad, like everyone else, and retire, about as headachy and querulous as usual. I sleep averagely badly, but in the morning, feel unfamiliar and alert. I feel as if my head has been kept overnight in a warm, dry, cupboard; the dank fuzziness I habitually associate with getting up, is somewhere else. I also seem to have lost two pounds in weight. Coincidence?

This mood continues, interspersed with moments of self-congratulation, plus an uneasy background nag that it might all be about to end in tears - crippling withdrawal symptoms, or a kidney stone, or a heart attack brought on by the sudden depletion of red wine-based antioxidants. Somehow I seem to have got a freebie: a clearish head, a small saving in monetary terms, plus mildly heightened self-esteem - and yet we all know that there are no freebies in life, only deferred payments. 

All the same, it's not going too badly. It's borderline enjoyable. It would be fair to describe it as a good thing.

So, now what? I end my prohibition era with some more of the head-butting Jacktone (I've got another nine bottles to get through), savouring the unfamiliarity of it all. Should I go on the wagon - like some people I know - for the rest of the month? Should I just do it from time to time, when the mood strikes? Should I go back to the weekly dryout? Should I forget the whole thing? I'm inclined to try for weekly temperance again, and see if it makes a difference. How virtuous 2014 is starting to look.

CJ





Thursday, 9 January 2014

We're back – and this time, it's Rude…


And so we return, skint and sober, from the festive period. Heaven knows how we survived. (What is it, for example, about the Scots? Why do they make such a fuss about celebrating mahogany?)

But to help us stagger through, the people at Rude Wines were kind enough to send us a brace of bottles apiece. Given the pretensions of PK and the poverty of CJ, it's rare for us both to consume the same wines. So here's how the Rude products found their way into our seasonal diet…


28th December 2013 - CJ 
Really I was hoping for something light, refined, but with a hint of austerity – kind of a David Niven wine – after the knuckle-dragging 15% Pilastro my Pa-in-law had insisted on serving over Christmas (see also a couple of Christmasses ago), and which left my mouth feeling like a pub carpet. But of course the La Masseria Primitivo from Rude Wines turned out to be virtually the same as that terrible Pilastro, only 14.5% instead of 15 and with a quieter label. A truth which dawned on me as I sat at my kitchen table morosely tippling while noting on a piece of paper the following gnomic relevancies: 'Like a hedgehog'; 'doesn't get any better'; 'harsh raisins'; and, in a final existential cry, 'industrial vacuum cleaner'. It's bad enough not knowing what I like; but knowing what I don't like and then drinking it anyway has to be somewhere at the top end of stupid. And it's not the first time. I mean, obviously there are scores of people who look on a big, sweating, Primitivo with unfeigned affection, but then there are people who get along with Donald Trump.

29th December – PK 
The problem with celebrations is that they remind me of how I ought to drink. Christmas, New Year and the birthday I have between the two are all excuses for some fine wine drinking of the calibre which I feel I deserve. The issue then is what to drink on the intervening days, without dragging the whole season back down to dross. It seems defeatist to retreat into what I know are bargain bin purchases, with the operative word being ‘bin’. So as leftovers are being arranged into what is known at Casa K as a cold collision, I decide to gamble on one of these unknown Rude wines. Their Antichi Borghi Chianti started off spritely, if a bit on the thin side; but the bouquet disappeared faster than the flames on our Christmas pudding, and the flavour chased it. By the time we had (as Masterchef has taught us to say) “plated up”, it emerged as a strangely greasy, tasteless yet somehow acrid plonk, like a combination of sunflower oil and Night Nurse. Oh dear, let this not be a portent of wines for the year to come. For once, I’m afraid I don’t wish to be Rude…

4th January 2014 - CJ
Crowdfunding a liver transplant: that's my project for the start of the new year. It may be age catching up, but the last few weeks have passed in such a welter of grog, that I am now overwhelmed by sensations of ennui and liverishness plus a desire to replace my insides with something more durable. When it came to it, it was as much as I could do to look at this bottle of Chianti, let alone drink the contents. Still. Out came the cork, the red liquid splashed into the Duralex, and what do you know, but this was the one I was begging for all along? Nice tannins (I smirked to myself) good acidity, and that charming, slightly motheaten finish I look for in a Chianti. Yes: reticent, no nose to speak of, but what was this? A suggestion of caraway? Or was I hallucinating? At any rate, I had been semi-seriously contemplating giving up drink for at least a day. But now? A new accommodation, only with this proviso: please God, no more fit-to-burst heavy-hitting reds, reeking of fruits and black as pitch. Just give me something potable I can see daylight through.


6th January – PK 
It’s all over. The tree is down, the lights extinguished, and Christmas and New Year have evaporated, along with their accompaniment, Happy. To counter a cold, rainswept Twelfth Night – to say nothing of the remnants of an actual cold – and before being thrown back on the diminished resources of my cellar, I opened the second of Rude’s wines. Their Primitivo signalled its intentions like a ringside bell, with a dense, inky colour, and a strong, fruity nose. We’re not talking subtlety here; it’s a squat and muscular John Prescott of a wine. Briefly I forgot my notions of finesse, and wallowed in the syrupy comfort of its dense, plummy warmth with a hint of spice, a glow in winter I found fondly reminiscent of Old English Spangles. It's like a lovely warm bath, for those who drink such things.

But the samples are gone and our racks depleted. It’s time to begin another year of confused foraging. “Bring in”, as Dickens wrote, “the bottled lightning, a clean tumbler and a corkscrew”...

CJ & PK



Monday, 23 December 2013

Season's Greetings from Sediment!




We wish all our subscribers, readers and visitors a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

May your glasses be more than half-full throughout this festive season.

We will be back in January, livers permitting.

Cheers,

CJ & PK