So
the summer break finally comes to an end, we return from Corsica and
the South of France to a house smelling like a bale of dirty hockey
socks and with the back garden full of mouldering spoil from the
walnut tree, and our tans wash off instantly under the shower, and
there is no milk in the fridge because we forgot to get some on the
way back, and what have we learned?
FACT:
There are more Italians in southern Corsica in August than there are
Italians in Italy.
FACT:
Corsican main roads are only a metre wide, but will expand magically
so that a peloton
of cyclists, a campervan and two terrified Brits in an unsuitable
hire car can simultaneously occupy the same space and
gaze out over the sea which is a 200-metre vertical drop just below
them.
FACT:
I saw no-one with a thick black bandit moustache, nor a knife tucked
into his boot; but the road signs are worryingly (by British
standards) peppered with bullet-holes.
FACT:
One of the more popular Corsican wines (and there are plenty to
choose from) is actually called Gaspa
Mora and this is perfectly true.
Just look at the photo and tell me I'm lying.
Let's
pause there and ask, How do I know about Gaspa
Mora?
The
usual way.
After
all, once you've unpacked your stuff and discovered that you've
brought conditioner with you instead of suntan cream and that your
Kindle charger has been left at home, what do you do but head off to
the nearest LeClerc or SuperU for some wonderfully affordable grog?
And what do you then discover but that Corsica, far from being a
sweltering lump of rock covered in deadly maquis
and members of the French Foreign Legion doing parachute jumps, is
actually verdant and surprisingly fertile? Wines and award-winning
cheeses litter the place, among the former a nice Réserve
du President
red (see photo) and an even nicer Vermentino/Chardonnay mix called
Terraza
(ditto),
neither of them, I'm half-remembering, coming in at over five Euros a
bottle.
But
the clincher is the Gaspa
Mora,
which not only has the best name of any wine I have ever come across
- I mean, have you ever heard of anything so candid, so direct, in
its appeal? - but is available in red, white and pink, and,
astoundingly, comes in at about three Euros, depending on which
supermarket chain you visit.
What
does it taste like? Pretty good, if the conditions are right. I tried
the red and the white, and having steeled myself for something
unthinkable (especially vis-à-vis
the white) was pleased to find that the red was anonymously velvety
with no major side-effects, while the white was simply anonymously
wine-like as long as it was kept shrouded in a chilly autumnal dew,
which meant dashing back and forth to the fridge an awful lot.
A
quick Google back at base subsequently reveals that what I was
drinking was Nielluccio - whatever that is - plus Merlot in the red;
and straight Vermentino in the white, which came as a slight surprise
as I associate Vermentino with something more vegetable than the
vague floral impressions left by the Gaspa,
but still. Both red and white have that easy-drinking dosser's
quality that I look for nine times out of ten on the supermarket
shelf, and both stayed fresh to the bottom of the bottle, despite
several days of on-off usage.
I
also find that Gaspa
seems to be confined to the narrow shores of Corsica itself, with no
chance of a breakout in the near future. I guess they don't make
enough to export, and perhaps one shouldn't be sad that they don't:
these holiday relationships rarely work out. I would hate the name of
Gaspa
Mora
to be compromised by rough handling, UK taxation and insensitive
in-store promotions. I would also hate the label - gilt and a kind of
faux-marbre,
like a Beverly Hills bathroom - to be given a calming graphical
makeover for the Northern European market.
And
now I think about it: what kind of clientele would it attract - over
here - with a name like that? No, no. It wouldn't do. File it under,
I don't know, One-time Instant Nostalgia, and be grateful that I
had the relationship at all. Just me, the sunset, and the Gaspa.
CJ
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