So
here we are in the second half of the first month of 2016, and the
last independent wine store in my neighbourhood, the one which was previously a doomed Oddbins, has just closed down. You could see it
coming, of course. The poor devils were wasting away before our eyes
like a malaria case, with painfully shrinking stock, an increasing
feverishness in the disposition of items in a space that was at least
twice as big as it needed to be, a long moment of despair during
which the deadest part of the retail area was turned into a wine bar
which no-one ever went to, then a final convulsion of bottles in the
window display, containing beer, mineral water, wines you had never
heard of, beseeching chalk notices, messages scrawled from the
deathbed. I mean why would anyone ever go into any kind of retailing,
especially in our neck of the woods?
Here,
the only survivors are either parasites (estate agents, a fresh
growth of them in the last twelve months) or necrophages (scores of
charity shops, all looking eerily healthy), plus some mainstream
supermarkets in different sizes, visitors from a different ecosystem.
Nothing much else lives here, except for a hardware store which sold
me not one but four sets of Christmas tree lights at the end of last
year. But here's the thing: on the face of it my neighbourhood and
PK's are remarkably similar, with their mixed suburban housing stock
and their relentlessly middle-class homeowners + fatuously large cars
+ expensive holidays + furious young mothers. However: his supports
at least three
independent wine stores, on top of a full array of supermarkets and,
shortly
before this same extended neighbourhood turns into the concrete netherworld at the start of the motorway, a Majestic Wine.
And yet it's only a couple of miles from where we live. In fact I
could lean out of the window and shout to attract PK's attention if I
really wanted to. How can one place be so very good for booze and the
other, so close by, not? The demographic appears to be identical, but
when it comes to wine, it clearly isn't.
Well,
as PK somewhat tartly observes, his place also boasts four bookshops,
a theatre and a literary festival, to say nothing of several chain
restaurants, and, come to think of it, a boutique chocolatier
so overprivileged that a small boxed assortment costs the same as a
weekend in Wales, so I suppose that answers that.
His High Street is much bigger and busier and frankly, poncier,
than mine, so what else do I expect? Oh, and his property prices are
higher than mine. It is in effect a perfect storm of self-regard and
consumerism, but is it (using the number of independent wine shops as
the key determinant) at least three times more self-regarding and
consumerist than the apparent dead zone I have been living in for the
last quarter of a century? Yes, so it would seem - and of course
when I stand back and look at my surroundings critically it
doesn't take long before their dullness and banality, their lack of
ambition, start to become overwhelming and I wonder how I ever kidded
myself that I was a bit of a groover to be living here at all. The
difference between PK's retail environment and mine turns out to be
the difference between St-Germain-des-Prés
and Coney Island.
Which
makes me then wonder - if this is
the case - how sincerely self-deluding you would have to be, not to spot these actually quite substantial nuances, to
believe that you and you alone could bring the art of fine drinking
to a place that clearly has no interest in such a thing.
Obviously one feels badly for the people who tried to make the
project work and failed, but in essence It's got to be more
self-defeating than trying to explain the internet to your
mother. And yet PK has access to three of the damn things. No, I'm
sorry, I still don't understand.
CJ
Oh dear
ReplyDeleteI know. Another loss to our neighbourhood, along with the exhaust repair centre and the German cake shop
ReplyDelete