So,
mead: I mean, you can't really call it a divisive drink because
nobody drinks it, therefore there's no-one to be divided by it. It's
just that stuff
you sometimes find in heritage gift shops which sometimes seems like
a good idea for an elderly relative but more often not, and anyway,
have
you ever tasted it? It seems familiar enough while at the same time
being unknown. I feel sure that I must have drunk it, I can feel the
stuff coating the inside of my mouth, honey, yes, that's what it's
made from, maybe a faint alcoholic rasp at the back, it's up there
with egg nog as something you never want to tangle with unless you've
decided to live in a cave in the Welsh Marches. Perhaps it's good to
steep fruit in? If you like your fruit almost inedibly sugary? The
stuff stopped being an everyday drink at the time of Beowulf,
surely.
But
here we are in 2019 and what do you know but I find myself sitting at
a bar in Peckham Rye, where a good many hipsters have taken root, tasting
21st Century mead with its creator, Tom Gosnell, who - following an
epiphany a few years back in the US, where mead is big, or bigger
than it is here, anyway - is determined to get mead back on our
tables, where it belongs. Seriously. His meadery - I'm not making
this word up - is a mile away and he sources as many of his
ingredients locally as he can. Not only that, but he offers a whole
range of mead sensations, none of them in the least like what I think
mead might be.
We
actually start with several examples of mead-in-a-can, which is a
funkier, more contemporary kind of mead done as a long drink, plenty
of sparkle, only 4%, so the same as a glass of beer but evidently
not, especially in the form of Gosnells Hibiscus Mead and I'm not
making this up, either. Yes, we are in SE15, but Hibiscus? Only,
guess what? It's really not bad. Comes out of the can a deep blush
colour, looks a bit like a Kir Royale, sits there quite confidently
in the glass, the honey undertow (you can't escape it, it's still
mead, even if there is plenty of water mixed in) working with the
drier hibiscus additions and the fizz to stop your palate from
furring over completely. Yes, it's weirdly stimulating and
refreshing. Indeed I'm so startled that all I can do is sit there
saying Well
I'll be damned
under my breath. I don't even want to give my glass up when we move
on to the next round of beverages.
These,
by way of contrast, are your more classic mead stylings, presented in
a smart glass bottle, not a can, and once again I am caught on the
hop. Two in particular: Gosnells Finsbury Mead (5.5%) and Gosnells
Saffron Walden Mead (7.5%) leave me writing Rather
fantastic
in my tasting notes, and Forget
you're drinking mead.
The Finsbury Mead actually uses honey from Finsbury, just up the
road, and I start to entertain the slightly hallucinatory idea that
I'm drinking the essence of London, a concept I rather like. We're
talking about something slightly sterner than the canned stuff, not
dry exactly, but not a Sauternes either. Also with a hint of
pétillant.
Someone suggests that it would go well with a blue cheese. I nod, as
if what I think might matter.
And
this mood returns, not surprisingly, with the Gosnells Hackney Mead
(a full-on 9%) which Tom Gosnell describes as Telling
the story of the summer which the bees have experienced.
I don't even do a double-take at this. We're not in wine territory,
nor are we in craft beer or cider country, although the latter might
be this kind of mead's nearest rival, what with the pastoral
overtones and a sense of reaching back into a shared past. Complex,
I manage to write down. Still, I feel I'm doing well to achieve as
much as that. Complex
is what this whole thing is: not just the drink itself but the need
to reclassify this kind of mead as something better than a mere
comedy beverage. It is a whole new taste and one which will take some
processing. We finish up and I leave Peckham Rye, fuddled and yet,
somehow, slightly sharpened.
Two
points remain: Tom Gosnell himself is in a very cheerful mood, not
least because he's just inked deals to supply his product to the
United States and Korea, two countries with a confirmed taste for the
new mead; and if you want to buy some from the Gosnells website, it's
£25 for a 75cl bottle of the Saffron Walden variety. Which suggests
to me that now might be a good time to invest in some bees,
especially if you live in Hackney.
CJ
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