So
the wife and I are in Sicily for a week, and everything is very
agreeable, sun shining,
delightful little streets,
fantastic markets selling eye-boggling fresh fruit,
and seafood,
adorable faded Baroque grandeur,
some ruins.
But what seals the deal? Some of the cheapest, and, it has to be admitted, least drinkable wine I have ever come across. The most provoking being a half-litre of white which appears on our dinner table one night (along with an overflowing skipload of fish stew) and which looks fab until you get within sniffing range, at which point it turns out to have a nose like uncapped Araldite plus an oily, bilious mouthfeel so startling that I am quite unable to do anything about it, like send it back, instead humbly chewing my way through about a third of it before admitting defeat. Oddly, there's no perceptible hangover the next morning, even though I am convinced at the time of drinking that I will end up blind and hospitalised.
Everything
other than that is a step up: nameless reds and whites, brush
cleaner/emetic combinations, a meaningful encounter with some Nero
D'Avola, and all is fine and inexpensive, until I get to this:
a whole litre of anonymous red, branded Bella Vite, whatever that means, in a waxed carton, with a plastic stopper and a gouache of a sexy bicycle girl on the label, all for €1.40. It is only 10% alcohol, but that's fine, too: I can drink it unheedingly without getting tinnitus or the blue horrors. You tell me if life gets better than that.
Actually,
I may know the answer even before I ask the question: the day after
my €1.40
red, I find what seems to be exactly the same stuff - minus the girl
on the bicycle - for a scant €1.30.
And next to that, a terrifying stockade of clear, two-litre plastic
bottles, each the size and shape of a party Fanta, completely
unlabelled, holding red, pink and white. Wine, I guess. They work out
at €1.00
per litre, but I am half-way through my holiday, and with the best
will in the world, I cannot get outside two-thirds of a litre of
unmarked gutrot every day, just before dinner. The experiment must
remain untried. There may be yet lower highs I can try; but for now,
the bottom-dollar Bella
Vite will
do about as well as anything costing less than a daily paper possibly
can.
CJ
Welcome to my neck of the woods! Bella vite, while obviously being a play on bella vita, means the "beautiful vine". Loads of very cheap wine here, much of it undrinkable, some of it wonderful... But if you're prepared to spend a bit more, say glossy magazine rather than daily paper, I'd suggest some Etna Rosso and some Grillo as far as the whites go. Enjoy your holiday!
ReplyDeleteWell thank you for that! Holiday is sadly now over, too late to put your suggestions into practice... but we liked Sicily very much...
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